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Tools of the Trade

In discussing methods of constructing gaming pieces, I often find that people are not familiar with a given tool (often I am the unfamiliar one ). So, since common knowledge isn't always so common, I offer a review of tools that I use in fielding the game.

Much of the following will be well known to long time gamers, but it may be helpful to newbies. And, there may even be a tidbit here and there of interest to the veteran.

Basic Modeling Tools

Hobby Knife or Scalpel: Hobby knives are probably the most basic tool for trimming figures, cutting bases, etc. Scalpels work equally well, though the blades are a little finer, thus not quite as strong. If you use hobby knives that take the no.11 blade, consider buying the blades in 100 count boxes (shown in the upper right portion of the photo), you can save 40 to 60 % of the unit price of smaller packs.

Steel Rule: A must for cutting wood or plastic when working with the hobby knife.

Adjustable protractor: Next to my knife, probably the most important tool that I use. Great for cutting bases, as a guide for scribing styrene, etc. Adjustable angle works for cutting oddly shaped roof pieces, etc. when scratch-building. Can be found at Sears or ordered from Micromark.

Flushcut Diagonals or Wire Cutting Pliers: The key here is "flushcut", most of those at the hardware store have beveled cutting blades that are beveled on both sides of the cutting edge. These are flush on the outside of the jaws, allowing you to make square cuts on pieces of wood and plastic. Xeron, Mascott, and Testor's sell various styles; all work about equally well.

Pin Vise or Mini Twist Drill: Three different types are shown, the center one by Mascott (order from Walthers) is the best. It holds the widest range of drill sizes, and allows you to apply the most pressure with least fatigue while drilling.

Perma-Grit Files: I first saw these sold under the name Perma-Grit, but others have followed and work just about as well. They are about 9" by 2" and have either a very coarse (maybe 80grit) or semi-fine (maybe 120grit) surface. They do not wear out (at least not in 10 years). They also come in several shapes (more than are shown here). Good for cleaning off figure bottoms/bases, and occasionally useful in shaping foamboard terrain.

Disposable Syringe and Plastic Solvent: The syringe applies the solvent to the seam between plastic pieces and welds them together. Works on styrene, ABS, acrylic, lexan, and just about any other "hobby" plastic. Dissolves most styrofoams. Read warnings and take appropriate precautions.

Flexible Sanding Sticks: I like the Squadron ones the best, but there are others. They come in at least 4 grits (I use 3). They taper slightly, but are about 1/2 inch wide, maybe 5 inches long and about 1/8 inch thick. They are very useful when wet-sanding plastic.

Plastic Scribes: Make a "V" cut in styrene and similar plastics. Good for putting seams in the surface of scratch-built vehicles and aircraft. Also useful in making cut stone and brick patterns for buildings.

Calipers: For really accurate measurements, especially repetitive measuring. These are cheap plastic ones, maybe $8.00; $25 gets you better ones with a dial readout (much, much easier to read and probably worth the extra $ if you need one) at Sears and most hardware stores.

Miter Box and Saw: This is one of the cheaper ones, but is what I use most when I need one. Allows you to make precise, 90 and 45 degree cuts in wood, plastic, brass, and aluminum.

Unibit: Outstanding multi diameter bit cuts just about anything, but is especially useful in cutting plastics. Regular drills often tear out around the whole in styrene, or cause spalling on the back side of acrylic, but these bits make perfect smooth cuts every time. they are pricy, about $25 for this one, but worth it if you have the application. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Some have fewer steps, with longer shaft in each diameter, some are almost conical in shape.

Terrain Making Tools

Hacksaw Blade: I use a loose blade for most of my terrain cutting, yes a hotwire can do the same with less dust, but the saw blade is often faster, more forgiving, and allows you to cut depressions in flat serfaces that the hotwire needs special wire for. You might want to rap tape around one end or wear a glove so that you don't hack your hand rather than the foam.

Surform Tool: Two of them are shown here, the lower showing the rasp-like cutting surface. Allows one to sculpt and shape foam very rapidly. I have used them to shape everything from gaming terrain, to full scale animal mock-ups, to the front ends of cars.

Mini Orbital Sander: This is an older model made by Minicraft and Black and Decker. The foot is about 2" by 3", and it is outstanding for working on terrain. Larger sanders will work, but are less forgiving. Sandpaper, foam sanding blocks, etc. will work, but are just slower.

Roto Tool, i.e., Dremel: I use it in shaping and texturing models and to cut streams and gullies into foam (usually with a router attachment. Shown (badly) in the photo is a fiber reinforced cutoff wheel (much less dangerous than exploding ones that come with most roto tools, and a drum cutter typical of those used in cutting streams.

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Basic Modeling Tools Hobby Knife or Scalpel: Hobby knives are probably the most basic tool for trimming figures, cutting bases, etc. Scalpels work equally well, though the blades are a little finer, thus not quite as strong. If you use hobby knives that take the no.11 blade, consider buying the blades in 100 count boxes (shown in the upper right portion of the photo), you can save 40 to 60 % of the unit price of smaller packs.
Steel Rule: A must for cutting wood or plastic when working with the hobby knife.
Adjustable protractor: Next to my knife, probably the most important tool that I use. Great for cutting bases, as a guide for scribing styrene, etc. Adjustable angle works for cutting oddly shaped roof pieces, etc. when scratch-building. Can be found at Sears or ordered from Micromark.
Flushcut Diagonals or Wire Cutting Pliers: The key here is "flushcut", most of those at the hardware store have beveled cutting blades that are beveled on both sides of the cutting edge. These are flush on the outside of the jaws, allowing you to make square cuts on pieces of wood and plastic. Xeron, Mascott, and Testor's sell various styles; all work about equally well.
Pin Vise or Mini Twist Drill: Three different types are shown, the center one by Mascott (order from Walthers) is the best. It holds the widest range of drill sizes, and allows you to apply the most pressure with least fatigue while drilling.
Perma-Grit Files: I first saw these sold under the name Perma-Grit, but others have followed and work just about as well. They are about 9" by 2" and have either a very coarse (maybe 80grit) or semi-fine (maybe 120grit) surface. They do not wear out (at least not in 10 years). They also come in several shapes (more than are shown here). Good for cleaning off figure bottoms/bases, and occasionally useful in shaping foamboard terrain.
Disposable Syringe and Plastic Solvent: The syringe applies the solvent to the seam between plastic pieces and welds them together. Works on styrene, ABS, acrylic, lexan, and just about any other "hobby" plastic. Dissolves most styrofoams. Read warnings and take appropriate precautions.
Flexible Sanding Sticks: I like the Squadron ones the best, but there are others. They come in at least 4 grits (I use 3). They taper slightly, but are about 1/2 inch wide, maybe 5 inches long and about 1/8 inch thick. They are very useful when wet-sanding plastic.
Plastic Scribes: Make a "V" cut in styrene and similar plastics. Good for putting seams in the surface of scratch-built vehicles and aircraft. Also useful in making cut stone and brick patterns for buildings.
Calipers: For really accurate measurements, especially repetitive measuring. These are cheap plastic ones, maybe $8.00; $25 gets you better ones with a dial readout (much, much easier to read and probably worth the extra $ if you need one) at Sears and most hardware stores.
Miter Box and Saw: This is one of the cheaper ones, but is what I use most when I need one. Allows you to make precise, 90 and 45 degree cuts in wood, plastic, brass, and aluminum.
Unibit: Outstanding multi diameter bit cuts just about anything, but is especially useful in cutting plastics. Regular drills often tear out around the whole in styrene, or cause spalling on the back side of acrylic, but these bits make perfect smooth cuts every time. they are pricy, about $25 for this one, but worth it if you have the application. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Some have fewer steps, with longer shaft in each diameter, some are almost conical in shape.
Terrain Making Tools Hacksaw Blade: I use a loose blade for most of my terrain cutting, yes a hotwire can do the same with less dust, but the saw blade is often faster, more forgiving, and allows you to cut depressions in flat serfaces that the hotwire needs special wire for. You might want to rap tape around one end or wear a glove so that you don't hack your hand rather than the foam. Surform Tool: Two of them are shown here, the lower showing the rasp-like cutting surface. Allows one to sculpt and shape foam very rapidly. I have used them to shape everything from gaming terrain, to full scale animal mock-ups, to the front ends of cars.
Mini Orbital Sander: This is an older model made by Minicraft and Black and Decker. The foot is about 2" by 3", and it is outstanding for working on terrain. Larger sanders will work, but are less forgiving. Sandpaper, foam sanding blocks, etc. will work, but are just slower.
Roto Tool, i.e., Dremel: I use it in shaping and texturing models and to cut streams and gullies into foam (usually with a router attachment. Shown (badly) in the photo is a fiber reinforced cutoff wheel (much less dangerous than exploding ones that come with most roto tools, and a drum cutter typical of those used in cutting streams.